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Sunday, August 27, 2024
By Dr. Steven Taylor

While I have been back for several weeks, and have posted a few tidbits (such as these photos), I have yet to get around to really posting much. So here’s an overview of the trip.

On the one hand, I was there to evaluate some possibilities in terms of sending students down, as well as investigating other options (such as meeting with individuals at the National University of the Peruvian Amazon) and other such stuff. In addition the trip meant getting to see a fascinating part of the world–Latin America in general and the Amazon region in specific. This was my first real trip to Peru, although not to the Amazon. When my wife and I lived in Colombia we took a trip to the Amazon during the spring of 1995 and did actually step onto Peruvian soil during the visit, but this was my first real visit to Peru proper.

I really enjoyed the trip and would recommend the trip to anyone even mildly interested in the area.

Some observations about the more tourist-oriented elements of the trip along with some notes on accommodations for anyone who might make the trip themselves.

I only saw a glimpse of Lima, and wish I could have seen more. We arrived late at night and flew out to Iquitos the next afternoon, so only had about five or so hours to see some of the sights. We drove around the city a bit and I was able to see the official residence of the President, the catacombs under the San Francisco cathedral, and few other sites in and around the Plaza Mayor.

The Presidential Palace

The Plaza Mayor in Lima

The catacombs were quite interesting, but photography was not allowed, so no photos.

San Fransisco Cathedral

We spent one night in the Hotel Melodia, which is in a commercial district and not far from the Catholic University and is a few blocks from the coast. The hotel itself was fairly plain, but more than adequate. The rooms were small, but clean and functional and had cable TV with some English language channels. The food in the restaurant was fine (only a snack that night and breakfast to judge by, however). The restaurant was open 24 hours a day and also had an internet-connected computer for use by patrons. For $38.00 a night there was little to complain about.

The trip was primarily to Iquitos and, indeed, the Amazon itself. The flight to Iquitos was uneventful (just the way flights should be).

My previous experience in the Amazon was Leticia, Colombia—a much smaller city than Iquitos, which has around 500,000. The city itself was pleasant enough, and filled with motorcycles and motocars. We stayed at the Hotel Victoria Regia, which was quite nice (and reasonably priced) and with good food in the restaurant. The hotel is a few blocks from the Plaza de Armas, the main square in Iquitos and only a few blocks from where the Amazon used to brush up against the city (the river shifted in the early 1960s, but one can see where it used to be).

The taxis of Iquitos: motocars.

The streets of Iquitos

We spent several days roughly 50 miles up river at the Heliconia Lodge, which is owned by the same person as the hotel we stayed at—indeed, the accommodations were billed as a package. The lodge is rustic, but quite nice. There is only electricity from 6-11pm (although the generator died our second night, so it was kerosene lanterns and flashlights). The entire structure is wood and built on stilts. Rooms have their own bathrooms and there is hot water. All meals were provided at the lodge and were quite good.

The Heliconia Lodge sitting on the bank of the Amazon

An interior shot of the lodge.

During our time at the lodge were able to take a multi-mile hike back into the rainforest behind the lodge, visit the local distiller/pub-owner (for lack of a better description), the local medicine man, the village of Yanamono, and the Island or Yanamono (among other places).

My colleague gets a general treatment from Maximo the medicine man
On Yanamono Island

Setting aside any issues of education opportunities, I would highly recommend the Heliconia trip as a vacation destination to anyone who has at least a moderately adventurous spirit.

We also saw various locales near Iquitos and took a brief trip down the Nanay to visit the Bora indians.

The Boras do the Welcome Dance

Dancin’ with the Boras

(BTW: if anyone might be interested in a trip to the Amazon, contact Viviene Tagg at vivej7 -at- charter -dot- net)

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Filed under: Latin America, photoblogging | |

3 Comments

  • el
  • pt
    1. OK, in that last picture you look 6′2″!

      Comment by Mark — Sunday, August 27, 2024 @ 5:32 pm

    2. In the Yanomoto Island pic, you appear to be sporting cowboy boots.

      Comment by James Joyner — Monday, August 28, 2024 @ 7:14 am

    3. Hiking boots, actually.

      Comment by Dr. Steven Taylor — Monday, August 28, 2024 @ 7:52 am

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